Woke up to the sound of torrential rain hitting the tile patio outside my room. The sky was dark, the rainfall heavy and I was ready to have breakfast and walk the city. I had the best night’s sleep in months. It came after traveling almost 22 hours from Salt Lake City to Catania. Yes, I was exhausted. But now it was a new day in the town of Catania.

Breakfast in a brightly lit but quite elegant breakfast room at Il Principe Hotel on Via Alessi. Cappuccino, fresh melons, pineapple, pastries, yogurt, ham, salami, cheese, rolls, butter, cold cereals, fruit juices. More food than one could possibly eat at one seating, but artfully arranged and the pastries were freshly crisp. Lovely.

I secured an umbrella from the front foyer (compliments of the hotel) and headed out to seek the Saturday markets I had heard much about. I wasn’t disappointed. The shouting of fish mongers drew me to the market, about a 5 minute walk towards the water. The array of fresh fish was astounding. From snails to tuna, from mussels to clams and scallops, sardines, anchovies, red mullet, baby sharks, shrimp in all sizes and colors,
and other sea urchins I have never seen before. Each fish seller was screaming, yes screaming, his wares as the umbrellas overhead were weighted down with the torrential rains. Maneuvering through the tight walkways from stall to stall made shopping (in my case, just surveying) impossible. My feet were soaked, my pant bottoms wet, and I needed a break from the hectic scene. But the fruits, meats, and vegetables were unsurpassed. And I hated to depart but the rains were driving me to drier areas. I ducked into the Duomo to get dry and see the historic structure and murals. It was a welcomed change - peaceful, contemplative setting in contrast to the chaotic market.

I headed back to the Via Etna, the street known for its elegant shops and cafes. Passing a church, I noticed flowers being set outside, getting prepared for a wedding. Window shopping, a cappuccino and a brief rest across the street from the church allowed a perfect view of the entrance. I watited for the bride, arrivng late in a Lancia; polizei standing guard, along with six or more other “guards” outside the church. Just guessing - but I think the bride’s father might have secured security, for one reason or another. Hummmm. Rains subsided. Back at the hotel i waited for my taxi to the airport, where I was to meet up with the group arriving from the states that will be my travel companions for the next week. Alfonso, our driver to Noto, was waiting with a sign that read “Soul of Sicily” outside the book store at the airport. When we all arrived, we loaded into the van, made introductions and headed south to Noto, about 1 1/2 hours away.

We arrived at La Corte delSole in anticipation of getting settled. A beautiful 4 star hotel with pool, courtyard, and large rooms was ideal for a week’s stay. After meeting up with everyone and a small reception for orientation, we headed to rooms to nap and get ready for our welcome dinner in the restaurant on premises. It was a menu prepared for just our group: lemon risotto, fish of the day with a tomato topping, and a lemon based dessert. The wines flowed, the conversation was lively, but we were ready for bed by 10 pm. Some had just arrived that day from the states, and jet lag was setting in; others had been in the country for a week, and I had arrived the day before, but still needed sleep. And sleep I did.

I am safe and sound at my hotel outside of Noto. Traveling is exhausting, no doubt about it. First, my 8:50 am flight on Friday morning was delayed by 1 hour. Arriving at the airport 2 hours in advance, per instructions for international travel, I now had 3 hours to kill before my flight took off. Why, oh why do they tell you to allow 2 hours to check in is beyond me. Skycap checked my bag to arrive in Catania, Sicily. I got on security line, 15 minutes I was at the gate, only to be told flight was delayed. I was NOT going to sit at the gate for 2 1/2 hours. I bought a day pass for Delta Sky Club with my AMEX card, $25 well spent, as it turned out. Sitting in the luxurious SLC Skly Club with Bloody Mary, cup of latte, and a toasted bagel, I was content. There was $25 worth of food already. I emailed, read and worried about making my connection at JFK to Rome since this flight was 1 hour late and I had a 2 1/2 hour layover in NY. Normally, it would be fine. But…okay. Flight takes off finally, 1 hour+ late from SLC. We hit weather over NY area. Severe weather. Might be diverted. OMG. I am so stressed. Last hours of that horrific storm that hit NYC early Friday morning, the tail end of the deadly tornadoes from the south. Of course, flight lands late, not at correct gate, so my connection for Alitalia Air (in termal 1, we are in terminal 4) is not to be. I was told not to even try. But then, where is my bag? Don’t know, Delta says.
They book me on another flight to Rome at 7:05 pm - 2 hours later than my original Alitalia flight. Which also means I miss my connection in Rome for Catania. I am a wreck. I get one of the last seats on the NY-Rome flight.
But now I have another 2 hours to wait for the JFK-Rome flight. Ah, I still have my day pass for Delta’s Sky Club; it’s good for 24 hours. Perfect. Found it. Ordered another Bloody Mary and munched on carrot and celery sticks. I must say the food sucked at the JFK International Sky Club. Is this where celebs and politicians hang out if THEIR flights are delayed? Are you kidding? Finally onboard the cattle car to Rome. In the middle of 4 seats. Squished. Fairly turbulent flight for 8 hours. I think I am going to be sick. Until I see Rome. Yes, barely see the tops of those red tiled roofs.

Now I have 2 hours until the next flight to Catania. But where is my bag? Did it make the Alitalia flight without me? Did it make the 10 am Catania flight without me? Is it still on the tarmac in NYC? No one can tell me. NO ONE! I have visions of arriving in Catania without luggage, having to shop for clothes in Sicily (horrors)!

I arrive in Catania on a flight with about 20 people. On a huge jet, 5 gorgeous flight attendants (the men, the men!) and us. And a prisoner that the Policia Penatenzione put on the flight before us, and then held him hostage for 1 1/2 hours in the back of the plane under armed guard, until we all got off the plane and another black van with more Policia Penatenzione got on the plane to remove him. Welcome to Sicilia!

As I watched everyone gather their luggage and wondering where my bag is hanging out, there was no sign of it whatsoever. Oh God.
I sheepishly, in my fractured Italian, explained to lost and found what happened in the last 24 hours, and the lovely Italian woman behind the counter looked at my ticket and exclaimed, “Ah yes, Ms. Henderson, it is here - waiting for you!” I could have cried with joy. She said it arrived early that morning and had “UNCLAIMED” written all over it’s lovely new handle. Thank God.

Off to the hotel in a taxi that I would describe as demolition derby ready. 30 Euros. Ah huh. $45. OKAY. The hotel, Il Principe, was lovely, elegant and clean. A nap. A long nap. 3 hours long. Then off to walk the streets of Catania. Alone. In a strange city. It was not the most warm of towns, really. Even the polizia were a little off putting. Asking directions - not fun. And don’t even think of getting into the best of restaurants, as a solo, on a Friday night without a reservation (or a man…) Finally found a seafood trattoria that I could be seated at 8 pm with the proviso I empty out by 9 pm for another reservation. No problemo. JUST FEED ME!

A lovely calamari fritto and pasta con tutto di mare, wine and I was happy. Back to the hotel for the best night’s sleep I have had in years. Honestly. 10 pm until 7 am. Nine solid hours. Nine hours of uninterrupted, dark, cold sleep. It was heavenly. And watching CNN’s coverage of THE WEDDING at 9:30, and seeing the English version of a broadcast, helped put me to sleep. It was sooooo boringly bland, but I loved the dress. LOVED IT.

The book is off to the printer. Release date is September 2011.
Here is the cover. An advance peek to what will be a big hit, I hope.

I had to come up with something creative, quick, cheap and festive for my Easter class centerpiece. At my local supermarket, right next to the wild mushrooms, was a container of grown wheat grass, ready for the taking. For $1.69 I took it.

Then in the candy section of my local Italian market, there was a package of imported Italian colored candy almonds. Easter colors. They look like eggs. And in the grass, it was perfect. So, I found a square deep dish to hold the container of grass, sprinkled the colored candy coated almonds around and in the grass, and the ideal centerpiece was done for under $5.00. And totally edible, for most of the candy was consumed by my students by the end of the night.

The flowers were cut from my garden. Daffodils and tulips. Best part - they were free.

I love being creative and creatively cheap. Cuttings from the garden of blooming fruit trees when the apricot and crabapples are in bloom, ivy from the ridiculous growth around the house, and of course any herbs that are growing out of control to add to any floral arrangement works for me.

Look around the exterior of your house (or your friendly neighbors’) for clippings. Forsythia this time of year is gorgeous with a few white or pink hyacinths. I love the look of tulips and decorative kale (from your local floral shop). Or how about the soon to be blooming phlox and deep blue grape hyacinths. Greens are greens. Find some that have not wintered over…even chives look whimsical in an arrangement. The great outdoors is your cutting garden. Cut away.

Last Friday was a very difficult day, emotionally. My gorgeous most loved cat, Cappuccino (he looked like a cup of frothy cappuccino), was scheduled to be put down at 2 pm.

After 12 1/2 years of residing in the house, lounging on the patio, and greeting all visitors who came to the door as a dog would (he was a “cog” - part cat, part dog), making the rounds to my students as I tried to teach in the kitchen, he became ill. Very ill.

I waivered for days of my decision - was he sick enough? Was he in pain? Was he able to recuperate from this dreadful disease? (Whatever it was, it was not pretty.)

By Friday morning, I knew it was a fait de compli. He was not eating, getting testy, and would not allow me to hold him. And when the veterinarian arrived in his mobile truck, entered the house with assistant and equipment and examined the cat, he confirmed my suspicions that matters had gotten worse since his last exam, a week earlier.

After the tearful goodbyes, I felt so alone in the house. That cat was my companion for so many years, loved to sit in the kitchen, underfoot, to watch all my antics. And maybe get a lick of seafood, chicken or ice cream - his favorite foods.

So, out came the pots and pans. The flour, eggs, butter, and spices. It’s therapeutic for me to keep busy in the kitchen when I am sad, mad, or any other emotion that requires busy-ness. And some of my best dishes arise from such emotional stress.

New York Crumb Cake - with cinnamon crumb topping and buttery rich cake base was therapeutic. Beating of the butter, addition of the eggs, and the melting of the butter mixed with flour and cinnamon. Just as I remembered it in New York with a cup of coffee in the mornings. It was minutes before I smelled the cinnamony crumbles wafting through the kitchen. Then the cake was cut into serving pieces to be divided between my compassionate neighbor, Zach, who thought I would need company when the cat was euthanized, and then the remainder to my good friend, Eileen, as a house warming gift. New York Crumb Cake is one of her favorite sweet treats. She’s an east-coaster, too.

Food. It fulfills so many needs. Hunger. Happiness. Sadness. But, most of all, it is the common bond for those occasions when words are not enough. Gratitude and love of friendship is expressed with just a plateful of warm cakes. No words. Hugs and cake. Sufficient display of emotion.

New York Crumb Cake

To prep the pan:
1 teaspoon canola oil
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
OR use Baker’s Joy to spray the pan

Batter:
3 cups all purpose flour
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 extra large eggs
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup canola oil
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Optional: 2 cups fresh berries of the season: blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc.

Cinnamon Crumb Topping:
2 cups all purpose flour
1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

Powdered sugar for sprinkling on top when baked

Brush a 9” x 13” x 2” baking pan with oil and dust with flour or spray with baker’s spray. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine all the dry ingredients. In another bowl, whisk all the wet ingredients. Fold dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until just combined. Do not over mix. Spread batter into prepared baking pan. Sprinkle with fresh berries of choice, but it is optional.

In another medium bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Mix well. Pour the melted butter over mixture and stir gently until large crumbs form. Sprinkle the crumbs evenly over the batter. Bake on middle shelf of 350o oven for 27-30 minutes. Test with wooden cake tester in center of cake. Sprinkle with powdered sugar when cooled to room temperature, then cut into 12 pieces.