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Just a short 40 miles south of Salt Lake City, Sundance Resort houses a mountain community for art, nature, and of course, food. Driving up Provo Canyon Scenic Byway leading to Sundance, you are awe-struck by the towering mountains and the rushing Provo River. So majestic, yet so close to a major Rocky Mountain metropolis.
I was fortunate to be one of the culinary vocational influenced guests invited to Sundance Resort’s Press Dinner featuring the chefs from the three restaurants under the Sundance umbrella - The Tree Room and Foundry Grill at the resort and Zoom in Park City.
Five courses, all prepared by the chefs of the three establishments, were presented with accompanying wines for each dish, all private labeled and crafted by New World wineries in California.
Upon arriving at the Tree Room, we were ushered into the Library, a cozy room with raw timber honed walls lined with books, Indian crafted rugs on the wide plank pine floors, and dimmed lights. A glass of Pinot Noir or Sparkling rose’ was offered as we awaited guests.
After all were assembled, we entered the dining room with the massive tree trunk around which the room was constructed (hence, The Tree Room moniker.) The table was set, personal place cards arranged at the 13 settings, and then the spectacular show began.
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Our amuse-bouche in a ceramic Chinese soup spoon set on a white square plate placed on a folded crisp white linen napkin was impressive. Molecular gastronomy’s influence was evident as a dollop of olive oil, dipped into a mysterious chemical to form a spun sugar type encasement and placed on a bed of powdered red wine vinegar created a surreal eating challenge. Not knowing how one would approach this dish, I tried to pick it up with my fork, which produced a spill of the olive oil onto the powdered vinegar. Obviously, not the proper way to taste. Another dish was brought out to me, and I was instructed to just pick up the olive oil bubble, roll lightly in the powdered substance and just pop it into my mouth. A burst of oil with the acidic vinegar sensation was unlike anything I have ever tasted. A little bit like a very tart vinaigrette in molecular form on the tongue.
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Chef Jesse Moreno of the Tree Room had created this dish to the wonderment of the diners.
He explained its composition, the intricacies of the formulation of the olive oil bubble, and the tediousness of the creation, which made it all the more appreciative.
Our bread plates were graced with two of the Tree Room’s housemade artisanal breads. One bite of the warm muesli roll lathered with unsalted butter and there is not morsel remaining. Yeasty, crunchy with oats and nuts, sweet with raisins and craisins, these rolls are part of the dining experience not to be missed. I know, it’s just bread, but…bread can make or break a meal. This makes the meal all the more memorable.
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Our next course was more approachable than the amuse-bouche. Steamed Washington State clams, in a five-herb broth and served with a garlic ciabatta toast triangle to absorb every bit of the aromatic broth was succulent. This dish is a Zoom favorite, under the direction of Chef Brian Prusse. Our paired wine was Sundance’s 2007 Honig Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley. The crispness of the wine and richness of the clams were an ideal match.
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An Arugula and Frisee Salad with roasted butternut squash, spiced pumpkins seeds and a blue cheese maple vinaigrette, prepared by Foundry Grill Chef Tim Anderson was delicate with baby frisee leaves and a smattering of the vinaigrette, just enough to kiss the greens. Wines with salads can be tricky, but Sundance’s 2006 Selby Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley was rich enough to stand up to the sweet maple and complex blue cheese of the vinaigrette.
A palate pleaser of blood orange granita, again presented on a white ceramic spoon whet the appetite for the rich entree to follow.
Grilled Buffalo Tenderloin, accompanied by a separate dish of cauliflower gratin, along side glazed baby carrots and topped with a sauce bordelaise didn’t disappoint. The tenderness of the bison loin, which was topped with decadent buffalo marrow, was enhanced by the Altamura 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon with blackberry tones and ruby red hue. If cauliflower is not your vegetable of choice, you must, must try this gratin to convert you to appreciate this lowly vegetable.
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As Chef Moreno explained, the stems were steamed with cream, then pureed and tossed with the flowerettes which were finely diced, then baked with a delicate butter based herb and cheese breadcrumbs sprinkled on top. Cauliflower has never tasted so delectable. Nor the bison, which is healthier than beef, as a red meat alternative for the cholesterol conscious diner.
The next two courses, both desserts from the two pastry chefs at The Tree Room and Zoom, were just as jaw-dropping spectacular. First, an Apple Polenta Upside Down Cake.
Caramel topped apples on a light polenta cake, accompanied by a mascarpone ice cream with almond crumble and apple cider reduction was prepared under the auspices of Sundance Resort’s pastry chef, Meghan Rule. A Mer Soleil Late Harvest Viognier from Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey was the dessert wine that paired perfectly with the caramel in the apples and the richness of the mascarpone.
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Next, chocolate….chocolate. A Warm Chocolate Cake crowned with Raspberry Port Gelato incorporates the best of everything I love in a dessert. Chocolate, raspberries, and port, encompassed in a dish by Zoom pastry chef Marcie Sierra. The last of the wines to be poured was another Sundance private label - Viader 2006 Meritage “Redford Reserve” from Napa Valley, named of course, for the founder of Sundance and artistic visionary, Robert Redford.
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By the time dinner concluded, we were sated, filled with fond memories of a most delightful evening in the company of Sundance Resort’s marketing and public relations manager, Lucy Rindolphi; executive chef Mark Shoup; Lindy Overton who oversaw the beverage selection as her role of banquet and beverage manager; and general manager of Sundance, Chad Linebaugh. Their hospitality and love of this magnificent location is evident in their effervescence and enthusiasm. If you have seen “Jeremiah Johnson”, you know the spectacular setting in which they work, every season bringing a new colorful backdrop to the mountains. And it’s literally, in my backyard. Sundance Resort. A day visit, a romantic weekend getaway or a ski vacation with the family. It’s a detour for those who want to experience luxury in the setting of the spectacular Wastach Mountains.
After spending a restful, quiet, snowy night at the resort, I awoke to snow a few inches deep on the car, a blue sky and aromatic pines and wood burning fireplaces. I needed to head back down the canyon to teach a class, but before leaving this bucolic setting, I stopped into the rustic Foundry Grill for breakfast. Their famous local Lehi Mills oatmeal, laden with nuts, raisins, and cream was just what I need to fortify my day. The dining room was sprinkled with families in ski apparel, eating a hearty breakfast and waiting for the lifts to open for a day’s skiing in the pristine mountains. I feel fortunate to have such a setting within close proximity of Salt Lake City, and to have a vocation that affords me to experience such a glorious meal with those who appreciate food and wine as much as I.
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