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Since Spruce of San Francisco fame, opened as a Waldorf-Astoria property restaurant last fall at the Canyons in Park City, Utah, the buzz has been building about the food, the setting, the service, the wine list, and the decor.
This past week, I had the opportunity to sample all this elegance for myself, up close and personal, with friends. Driving up Parley’s Canyon for our 6:30 p.m. reservation, the night was clear and the stars brilliant. No snow, no fog, no traffic. A winter issue, at times.
After turning onto the Canyons Resort road, the first right turn onto a non-descript road leads you to the massive Dakota Lodge, with impressive circular drive and twinkling lights on the shrubbery.
Within seconds, several valets appeared to open the car doors, dressed in chocolate brown outfits topped with brown paperboy felt hats. So unvalet-like, but professional.
Doors opened to a lobby of Baccarat crystal chandeliers, marble floors, massive floral arrangements, dark wood paneling, and a view of the lit Mediterranean blue pool, and dozens of pine trees, all adorned with miniature white lights. So romantic, yet so unlike any of the other Park City ski resorts have to offer.
Entering Spruce just off the lobby, we were escorted past the impressive bar - with Carrera marble topped tables and saddle leather chairs and banquettes. More Baccarat crystal chandeliers and sconces to enhance the mood.
Transported to another time and space to the main dining room, the black walls and massive fireplace were the ideal backdrop for the caramel colored leather chairs and white tablecloths. The silver framed mirrors, the crystal teardrop sconces, and the appropriately spaced tables made for a fantasy setting.
Service was impeccable. Water appeared, bread appeared, crystal wine glasses appeared, cocktails appeared, all without skipping a beat. Then, removed just as swiftly.
Warm cheese gougeres were presented as a little teaser for the meal to come.
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My cocktail of a local distillery, High West’s 7000 vodka, chilled in a martini with olives, was just what a martini should be. Chilled. Green olives (with pits). Shaken at the table in a portion sized silver martini shaker, then poured into a crystal martini glass.
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My first course of agnolotti with nettles and mascarpone were so light and delicate, the four large pastas were devoured without much notice. I could have had another bowlful for my main course.
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Our most gracious server made suggestions for entrees, and of course, they were right on. I ordered the honey lacquered duck with a sliver of foie gras over a bed of braised radicchio. The duck breast was cooked to a perfect medium rare, thinly sliced and oh so rich with the grilled foie on top.
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Other entrees of Spruce’s signature Maine lobster in lemon butter, and seared sea bass were also rated high on the enjoyment meter.
A bottle of WillaKenzie Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley accompanied the entrees. I love WillaKenzie Winery, making a detour to their facility in the gorgeous Oregon wine country whenever in the Portland area. Their Pinot Noirs are world famous, so reasonably priced and so drinkable, whenever and wherever the occasion.
For dessert, Spruce is synonymous with beignets and two sauces - usually chocolate and their homemade raspberry jam. An order of a basket of these warm, sugar coated little dough balls of goodness were easily consumed.
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My Meyer lemon panna cotta and another dessert of pots de creme were smooth and light. For our extra finale to the meal, a complimentary tray of chocolate and fruit jellies were presented with the bill, to make it more palatable.
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Total bill for three, $335, not including service. Not an every night event - but for special occasions or on an expense account this restaurant lives up to the highest expectations. And for those extra special occasions, a luxury room just an elevator ride away would make for weekend to remember.
Spruce, 2100 Frostwood Drive, at The Dakota Lodge, Park City. For breakfast, lunch (their Spuceburger is highly touted), dinner, AM desserts, PM desserts, and of course, dining in the soothing bar is always an option apres-ski, apres movie or as a day trip up the canyon.
